Why do skis stick to snow? How to properly lubricate plastic skis: tips and tricks. Can you cross-country ski in ski clothes?

Dmitry Zykov.

Science and life // Illustrations

Science and life // Illustrations

Science and life // Illustrations

When and where a person first got on skis and rushed to them from the nearest hill is not known for certain. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that the first skiers were hunters. It was not very easy for them to wander all day in search of prey in deep snow, and it was not possible to move quickly. So the hunters began to come up with different devices in order not to get stuck in the snow.

Probably, the first skis were snowshoes - flat oblong areas woven from branches, resembling the bottom of a basket. It is impossible to slide on such a thing, and walking is uncomfortable. But still, on the dense snow, the legs, shod in snowshoes, did not fail. Worse, if the snow is loose, it was easy to get bogged down in it, but hard to get out. But hunters are quick-witted people, and one of them guessed to cover the snowshoes with an animal skin, and not a simple one, but with a skin - this is a part of the skin of an elk or deer, taken from the leg. The wool on it is very dense and durable, adheres to the skin, and the hairs look in one direction. It turned out that on snowshoes covered with skins, you can roll down the hill and climb it, because on the descent, the skins slide, and on the ascent it rests on the snow.

However, there were not enough skins for everyone, and it was a pity for deer and elks. The hunters had to come up with other ways to slide through the snow. When they got on sliding skis, it is not known exactly. In any case, the earliest rock paintings of skiers date back to the 3rd century BC, and the first mention of skis and skiers is found in the Scandinavian sagas of the 8th-9th centuries.

Over time, hunters got wooden skis, at first straight, short and wide, then more like modern ones - relatively narrow and longer. Further skis would evolve faster. Their socks were bent, soft bindings appeared in the form of belts, and then hard bindings with special ski boots.

Some 20-30 years ago, almost all skis were wooden. To protect the tree from moisture (it appears not only from melted snow, but simply because condensation forms on cold skis in a warm room), the skis were painted on top and tarred on the bottom. Now wooden skis have been replaced by plastic skis and combined ones made of plastic and wood. Plastic skis do not get wet and glide better. For their manufacture today they use not only plastic, but also composite materials, alloys, wood of different species.

Some lovers of skiing believe that nothing needs to be done with combined and plastic skis - get up and go! This is not true. Unlike wooden skis, plastic skis don't really need any sanding or tarring. Nevertheless, new plastic skis must be waxed. To do this, rub the clean, dry sliding surface of the ski with a special ski wax (you can buy it in sports stores or order it online), then evenly distribute the paraffin over the entire surface with a special ski iron or a very hot knife blade. The heated paraffin melts and fills all the pores in the plastic. When it cools, the excess is removed with a plastic scraper, and the surface is polished with a special rubbing or a hard nylon brush. After that, it's the turn of the ski wax.

The first ski waxes appeared a hundred years ago. Before them, so that the skis glide better and snow sticks less on them, they used lard. Now we have much more choice.

Modern ski ointments are divided into three groups. The first, very important, is the soil. On the ground, the main ointment keeps well and for a long time, and without soil it can completely “slide” in 3-4 hours of riding. The second group is slip ointments. They provide a minimum coefficient of friction between the sliding surface of the ski and the track. They are used, as a rule, to lubricate alpine skis and cross-country skis for skating. The third group is clutch ointments. They perform two tasks at once: on the one hand, they provide good glide, on the other hand, when pushed, they “hook” on the track. That is why professional skiers use them for classic skiing, and amateurs almost always use them, because you don’t particularly run on a regular forest ski track.

Even ointments are distinguished by consistency. And although such a division is largely arbitrary, it is worth remembering that solid ointments are designed for dry frosty weather, semi-solid ones for temperatures around zero and liquid ones for positive temperatures. The temperature range, and sometimes the condition of the snow, for which the ointment is intended, is indicated on the label. For a normal ski trip, this information is enough.

How to oil your skis? Let's start with the fact that before a long hike, the skis need to be treated with ground paraffin. It is worth doing this in early spring, when the weather is frosty in the morning and the snow is very hard. For normal, even winter weather, soft fresh skiing and a short walk, it is not necessary to prime the skis.

The ointment, as we have already said, is applied to a clean and dry sliding surface of the ski in a thin even layer and rubbed thoroughly. For classic skiing, the toe and heel of the skis are lubricated with ointment or paraffin for sliding, and the cargo area (30-45 cm in the middle part of the ski) is lubricated with grip ointment.

If you have skis with a notch (“hooks” on the sliding surface of the cargo area) - there are a lot of these on sale now, then they practically do not require grip ointment. However, in warm weather or on an icy track, the notches cannot cope with recoil, so even such skis have to be smeared. By the way, the idea of ​​​​making notches on skis goes back to skins.

When already on the first meters of the ski it becomes clear that the skis give a return, the first thing to do is to add a little ointment to the grip on the cargo area. If this is not enough, slightly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bapplication of ointment towards the tip of the ski. If this does not completely eliminate the recoil, add some wax to the cargo area, designed for warmer weather - 2-4 ° C higher than the main wax (the prudent skier always has wax with him). Let the skis glide a little worse, but there will be no recoil and the walk will not turn into flour.

Details for the curious

How to tar wooden skis

To prepare wooden skis for the winter season, they need to be tarred. In addition to the fact that the resin protects the tree from moisture, ointments and paraffins hold better on the tarred surface.

First of all, we buy a special ski resin in a sports store. One tube is enough for a pair of skis. From two cans we make a water bath (see figure). We heat the ski resin in a water bath. Next, we take an ordinary iron, gently warm up the sliding surface of the ski and lubricate it with hot resin. To better absorb the resin, iron the ski. When the first layer of resin dries, apply the second, and then the third. The tarred surface should have a thick dark brown color.

Sometimes, in order to tar the skis, they are heated over an open fire - over a gas stove or a blowtorch. So, you should never do this! Not only is it dangerous, but the resin on the fire partially burns out and soot is formed, which significantly impairs slip.

... I rode this year in Bitsa on the first snow. On one of the climbs, I was stopped by a man who admitted that he had just bought himself plastic skis.
- Why do you easily drive up the mountain, but my skis go forward and backward - they roll the same way?
- And what did you smear them with?
- And what, they still need to be smeared?!

This dialogue, for all its seeming implausibility, is nonetheless very characteristic. Do I need to smear plastic skis, and how to smear?

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing,
editor-in-chief of the magazine "Skiing".

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of whether how to coat skis. Agree, such a statement of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if skis with a notch do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to just those who have made their choice in favor of “ordinary” classic skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them on hold (so that they do not give back, do not slide back ).

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper.

This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. This middle part of the ski (block) must be smeared with a holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported holding ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is enough to buy a set of 4 holding ointments (for example, domestic Vista, Uktus, Festa, Zet, Ray or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.). etc.) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with a holding ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you are going skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and colder holding ointment than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.

1. Skis are not held, or, as skiers say, “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to confidently push, when you push with your foot, they slip back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.

2. Skis, as skiers say, "stupid", that is, they don’t ride at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

After that, intensively rub the ski block first with a glove, removing the lubricant from the remaining snow and moisture droplets, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and, as it were, drying the ointment. You will have to apply much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of colder ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubrication. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue walking through the forest.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of ski ointments "Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to smear with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember the golden rule: you should always take two briquettes (cans) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch for a ski trip. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warmer or colder, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

After returning home, remove the old wax from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After that, you can safely apply new grease to the remnants of the old grease. If you want to clean the skis clean (which, in general, is completely optional), this can be done with a piece of cotton soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded washer - it almost does not smell, so do not "offend" anyone at home with the smell of gasoline.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you outside with skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the ointment blocks you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), and the skis ... categorically do not hold, “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

So, you will completely manage with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment - red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We smear ourselves with red ointment at any positive air temperature, and purple - at zero and a slight minus. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy, like in winter. As a rule, in spring it consists of hard large snow-ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather, you need a purple klister.

How to smear skis with liquid ski wax? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing greasy drops of ski ointment onto the block (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

And now about why you have to fiddle a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski ointments, which in their consistency are very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, the skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper, and then with a wash. The second option is to pack the skis in a case, bring them home and clean them there. And yet, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after the end of the workout - there are fewer soiled clothes and sticky hands, and the ski bag does not get dirty from the inside. The obligatory need to clean the skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually the spring sun, a wonderful ski track and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive waist bag (skiers say “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a spray bottle. This is a very good option for solving all your ski lubrication problems for the next few years in one fell swoop, so be sure to use it if possible.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly discourage you from trespassing. Trust me, modern plastic skis glide beautifully over the snow without any special treatment. This glide is enough for your eyes for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

Another thing is if your walks in the forest have brought you to such a state that you want to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer Moscow ski track or, more than aspirations, test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.

VII. How to improve ski glide?

I confess to you that this chapter is a plug-in, I am forced to write it a few years after writing the article itself. I have to because I see that many of you, our readers, have questions even after reading this article, and I have to answer them after receiving your letters. That is, it seems that I still failed to explain some important, basic things in this article. For example, there are many questions about how to improve ski glide. Therefore, this chapter is a summary of everything already said in this article and in answers to your questions (as well as what was not said) about ski glide.

So, what affects ski glide?

Fork #1.

Smooth skis or notched skis? Remember that notched skis will always glide significantly worse than non-notched skis. More about this in the very first chapter of this article and here in this my answer to one of your letters:

Fork #2.

Sliding surface plastic type . Again I address you to my answer to Natalya Sinitsyna Skis with notches do not go - just awful!- I talked in some detail about two types of sliding surface plastic - high molecular weight (expensive and fast) and low molecular weight (cheap and relatively slow). Please read. look at my car analogy. Remember that a wheelchair can be improved and upgraded in some way, but making it drive like a Porsche 911 or even like a Ford Focus is unrealistic.

Fork number 3.

Do you use slip lubricants? I emphasize that I wrote this article for beginners who are just taking their first steps on skis. Within this concept, I believe that plastic skis for sliding do not need to be prepared- modern plastics quite decently slide on snow. And yet, since this question comes up all the time, I will answer. The first thing you need to do is learn to distinguish between sliding lubricants and holding lubricants so as not to fall into the situation described here in this letter when our reader Tatyana Shalimova smeared the skis along the entire length with holding ointment and wondered why her skis did not go.

So, have you already learned to distinguish holding ointments ("clay") from sliding ointments ("candles", sprays, applicators, etc.)? Then -

Fork number 4.

Ointments of sliding of fast drawing ("lazy") or professional? First, you should keep in mind that you have a fairly large range of quick application glide ointments (sometimes called "lazy" ointments) at your disposal. To apply these ointments to the sliding surface of the skis, you do not need to have any devices.

And finally, the pinnacle of ski preparation technique for skiing: the use of so-called paraffins, sprays, emulsions, powders, accelerators, etc. not household!), brushes, scrapers, fiberlen (special non-woven napkins for ski processing), paraffins, powders, accelerators ... I'm not sure that it is advisable to describe this rather complicated and expensive ski preparation process in an article for beginners. However, if I see that even within this articles for beginners which brushes are needed for a beginner to prepare the base of cross-country skis?

QUESTION ANSWER

After the publication of this article, letters began to come to me from time to time with "naive" questions, to which readers could not find answers in this material. At first I answered them privately, until it suddenly occurred to me that these answers might be of interest to a wider circle of our readers. So if you did not find the answer to your question in the article, write to me on my mailbox [email protected] Feel free to send me your questions and I'll be sure to answer them. In the meantime - the first questions and answers to them.

2. Aluminum ski poles bend. What to do?

3. Is it worth smearing skis for holding in orienteering?

Oiling skis at home is within the power of everyone. To do this, it is enough to stock up on the necessary equipment and accessories.

What you need to lubricate your skis at home

For self-treatment of skis with paraffin and ointments, you need:

• A special iron that is used to apply paraffin wax. If there is none, then an ordinary iron is quite suitable, but it must be used with extreme caution and on the minimum heating mode.
• Plastic scraper. It will be needed when removing the old layer of paraffin.
• Nylon brush with hard bristles. Such a brush cleans the sliding surface of the skis.
• Sandpaper - for stripping pads.
• Non-woven material (wool, felt or nylon) is used to polish the surface of the skis so that the lubricant provides maximum glide.

Types of lubricants

There are two types of lubricants:

• sliding lubricants;
• holding lubricants.

Sliding lubricants used to lubricate the nose and heel part of the ski during the classic course. There are several types of such lubricants. The most popular paraffin.

Professional athletes also use pastes, emulsions, etc. Ski lovers do not need such lubricants, because they are expensive and are consumed quickly. Therefore, it is better for non-athletes to take domestic lubricants - they are cheaper.

Lubricated holding the central part of the ski (block) is processed. This is done so that there is no return. Holding ointments can be solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). Lubrication of the holding should allow pushing. At this moment, the snow crystals penetrate the ointment layer, the ski seems to “stick” to the snow and this makes it possible to push off. After a push, the crystals come out of the ointment, and the ski slides.

When choosing lubricants and equipment for lubricants, first of all, you need to be guided by the main goal of skiing. If ski trips are supposed only on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and the time spent on preparing skis are noticeably reduced.

If you plan to devote a significant part of your life to skiing, then you will have to lay out both money and time.

At home, you can lubricate the skis yourself

Ski lubrication scheme at home

When lubricating skis at home, you must adhere to a certain scheme:

1. First you need to get rid of the old layer of grease and carefully remove it with a scraper.
2. Carefully brush the entire surface of the skis with a brush in the nose and heel of the ski. In the block, clean with sandpaper.
3. After the performed operations, the block must be treated with a holding ointment, and the sliding surface with paraffin.
4. Paraffin can also be applied in several layers for maximum results.
5. To fix the lubricant and cool the skis, they must be taken outside. In about 30 minutes the skis will be ready for use.

It is not necessary to lubricate the skis often. Lubrication can be repeated only when a gray coating appears on the sliding surface of the skis.

Simplified ways to lubricate skis

Glide lubricants can also be applied without an iron. In particular, instead of an iron, use a metal ladle with a lid and a smooth, even bottom. Boil 2/3 cup of water and close the lid. This combination will completely replace the iron if soft paraffins are used.

Another way is as follows: intensive rubbing of paraffin is applied in a very thin continuous layer on a previously cleaned ski. After that, you need to take a cork rub and quickly rub in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat released in this way is quite enough to partially reduce the paraffin into the base. Finally, lightly brush through.

It is paraffin grease that is widely used in amateur sports. Absolutely all skis need care, regardless of the material from which they are made. A lubricated ski surface in time will prevent the skis from wearing out quickly and make them easier to glide over the snow.

Ski training at school

Skiing is one of the favorite activities of children in physical education classes at school. At the ski training lessons, children receive information on safety precautions, learn the technique of skiing. But the task of the teacher is not only to teach skiing, but also to teach how to care for them (properly lubricate and store), as well as choose the right clothes and shoes, the skis themselves according to the height and weight of the athlete.

Ski wax - a special tool to ensure a good ride, protection against sticking of skis to snow, used to give stability. This is an important item that a skier should always have in their inventory. Regular lubrication should be carried out from time to time so that the ski surface does not lose its properties, remains intact. The article discusses the types of such substances, how they differ, methods of application and recommended manufacturers.

There are many types of lubricants. There are two main groups into which they are divided: for holding (from unwanted slippage) and for sliding.

Each of them, their properties and purpose are described in detail below.

1. The powder is a fluorine-containing product with a water-repellent composition, produced both for traction in snow and for improving glide and acceleration.
2. Gels (ointments) are chemicals of a viscous consistency used to reduce friction or a firm stand on snow. The classic option for a skier is reliable for adequate money.
3. Spray - spray ointment for lubricating skis in order to improve glide and give stability. Universal substance, very convenient, fast application, easy to use just before the start. Minus - it is quickly consumed and is weaker on the surface, suitable for short distances.
4. Paraffins are synthetic hydrocarbon wastes, a by-product of oil refining. They are soft (melt easily at room temperature) and hard (melt within 70 degrees).
5. Accelerators - the above products with a high content of fluorocarbon. Reduce friction if necessary.

Which ski wax to choose and how

First you need to figure out what type of ski: with or without notches. Are there notches? Then you need only accelerating ointment. If not, you should buy both.

All ski ointments and paraffins are divided into ordinary, low-fluoride and high-fluoride waxes. The more fluorine is contained, the less the snow cover resists the skis, more acceleration is created. The price is directly proportional to the content of the component.

As mentioned, products are sensitive to temperature in different ways, hence environmental conditions and storage locations need to be considered.

Sliding lubricant, application features

Gliding lubricants are produced in different versions: paraffins, liquids, etc. Before use, you should carefully read the instructions to take into account the features of a particular drug. To see if the skis really need to be treated now, you need to ride about a kilometer, then make a decision.

Important: wooden hunting skis need to be impregnated with resin before each ski season, only then they can be lubricated.

Be sure to clean the skis from the old grease. Place cloth napkins on the surface, fix. Iron them with a special iron until the ointment is absorbed into them. After napkins, remove their adhering residues with a plastic scraper. Remove the remaining dirt with a special wash.

How to apply liquid ointment:

1. Spread on the sliding surface with a “herringbone”, without affecting the adhesion area (central 70-75 centimeters).
2. If the ointment is too viscous, heat it with a stream of hot air (for example, with a hair dryer).
3. Rub the suspension in an even layer with a special cork or hand, clean the groove, remove residues from the edges.

How to apply solid ointment:

1. On the desired area of ​​the skis, rub the product with a thin layer. Smooth it out with a cork or hand.
2. Do the lubrication 2-3 more times.

How to apply powders:

To apply the powder, you will need a special iron.

1. Evenly, in a very thin layer, cover the sliding area with powder.
2. Melt the lubricant crystals with a heated iron, move slowly in one direction.
3. After the surface has cooled, remove excess powder with a natural brush and lightly sand.

How to apply hard paraffins:

1. Turn on and heat the iron to 150 degrees.
2. Bring the corner of the device to the ski, press the paraffin. Wait for a quick melt and pour it on the right place in two strips.
3. In an even layer, smooth and rub over the plastic.
4. After ten minutes of cooling, remove the bumps with a brush. This is necessary to remove excess wax and create a thin layer without seals.
5. Repeat the procedure several more times, thereby strengthening the layer.

How to use boosters

The accelerator can be presented in any form, like a lubricant. Its difference is that the skis should be treated with it only after applying the base layer. The method of application is similar.

Ski grip ointment: what is it

A tool that allows you to set stability, facilitate movement, eliminates unwanted back and forth slips. Ointments, powders or aerosols are available. Not needed only if the skis already have a notch or are used for skating. It remains a matter of choice, but it is still advisable to stock up.

It is applied like this:

1. Measure the central 70-75 centimeters on the plane of the skis - this will be the grip zone, mark it with tape.
2. Wipe with a cork with special sandpaper over the desired area of ​​\u200b\u200bplastic. Remove excess dust.
3. Apply the product within the required limits, using the above instructions. Let dry/dry.

A wide range of

Tensor is a company engaged in the production of multi-component ski treatment products. Their products are available in liquid form, which immediately indicates the rapid removal of grease from the surface. However, professional athletes report that Tensor preparations are able to withstand long distances, more than 50 kilometers. Very economical, the bottle is enough for 10 times. The manufacturer also promises independence from the dollar exchange rate, which always guarantees a stable price.

DECATHLON is a French brand, a specialist in the invention of any sports goods, including skis. They produce paraffin, ointments of any type, sprays, accelerators. A wide catalog, quality products at a fair price.

VORTEX is a domestic manufacturer of products for skiing, such as powders, ointments, emulsions, paraffins. Large selection of lubricants, keeps at different temperature ranges. They hold securely in humid air, any type of snow, do not contain substances toxic to the skin, and do not ignite.

ORION is a Russian manufacturer of products resistant to any conditions: powders, clutch and acceleration lubricants, accelerator tablets, emulsions and others. Perfectly complements any sports equipment.

Plastic, semi-plastic and wooden skis are properly lubricated. Otherwise, without it, the walk will be unpleasant, it will leave not the best memories of itself, and in some cases even consequences.

Lubrication should be changed every ski season, or better, every season. This will save the sliding plastic from drying out and being damaged by snow. Professional skiers note that skis lose their glide properties even after lubrication, if the sports tool has remained intact for one season. It is not necessary (although desirable) to leave the work to a professional, ski lubrication at home can also be done, the main thing is to study the general, individual instructions, while using knowledge correctly in practice.

Here we are talking about amateur cross-country skiing.

When, at what temperature can you ski?

The ski season, for example, in central Russia begins with the appearance of snow cover (in November-December) and can continue until the end of March and even the beginning of April. You can ski at any temperature - from a small plus to a big minus, if at the same time you feel comfortable, do not freeze and do not sweat. To do this, you need to dress properly.

What to ski in?

How to dress properly?

Most often, the problem is not freezing, but overheating. First of all, you need exclude various down jackets and warm jackets. You can often see "skiers" with sweat on their backs - these people are doing it wrong.

In the right clothes without movement, it should be cold. Depending on the temperature outside and your pace of skiing, clothing and the number of layers may vary, but this rule should apply always. At the same time, of course, you do not need thin tight clothes, like athletes. Put on synthetic thermal underwear (thin or medium thickness), top - preferably with a high collar. In any case, the throat must be protected: for this, a universal scarf-mask (balaclava) is indispensable, which can cover both the neck and, if necessary, the face. Above - a warm-up ski suit made of a Soft shell type material ("Soft Shell") or any similar combination of a light jacket and pants.

In the right ski clothing, you should be cold without moving, and while moving, you should not sweat.

You can take a light down jacket with you to put it on at a halt, but then take it off and put it in a backpack.

An important element is sufficiently thick socks (special thermal socks for cross-country skiing are recommended).

In addition, you will need a windproof hat that covers your ears well (but your head should not sweat in it) and ski gloves. It is good if a special coating is applied to the gloves to better hold the sticks. If the hat and gloves use Windstopper type material, this is a good sign.

A word of advice: Apply lip balm to your lips before skiing to prevent chapping.

What should I do if I'm sweating?

This means that you are dressed too warmly for the given weather and speed of movement. Slow down! Otherwise, you risk catching a cold. Next time, keep this in mind and dress lighter. Pay attention to what is said above: in the right clothes, you should be cold without moving, and while moving, you should not sweat.

What to do if your hands are cold?

You need different gloves. If you have ski gloves, then they are too thin. Look in the store insulated gloves for cross-country skiing. Mittens, knitted gloves - all this is nonsense, they are not suitable for skiing, as they are blown by the wind and do not hold ski poles well. If insulated ski gloves do not solve the problem, you can try ski gloves(just make sure there is a special coating there to better hold the sticks).

Can I cross-country ski in ski clothing?

Take note of what has been said above about proper clothing. Still, skiing is a different kind of activity, and the clothes for it are different. But if you're skiing so leisurely that you're not overheating or sweating in ski clothing, then you're good to go.

What are the best ski boots?

Is it possible to ski at the beginning of winter when there is little snow?

When the snow cover is not yet very thick, it is already possible to ski, but there is a risk of scratching the skis, as stones, frozen ground, etc. can stick out in some places. Therefore, it is recommended to have at least two pairs of skis - one that is not a pity - for the first and last snow, and the second - for the main skiing in high season.

Can you ski when it snows?

Oh sure. A thin fresh layer of snow even improves glide, and notched skis hold better on the track when pushing off. Of course, with heavy snow and wind, you will not be very comfortable, as the snow will fall into your face.

Is it possible to ski in positive temperatures?

Yes, you certainly may. Even necessary. Take into account everything that has been said above about proper clothing - you need to dress lightly so as not to sweat. And if you are driving out of town, keep in mind that it will be colder there.

Is it possible to ski in the spring when the snow melts?

If it seems to you that the snow has almost melted, then this indicates that you rarely get out of the city. As a rule, outside the city at this time there is plenty of snow. It's always a little colder there. It is enough to drive a few kilometers by car, and you can perfectly ski in the forest or in the fields, despite the fact that there are continuous puddles in the city. Especially for a long time the snow lies in the shade of trees, along the edges of the fields - look for such places at the end of the season.

Skis go well on a slightly melted track (in any case, such a track is much better than an icy one). Therefore, the spring time when the snow melts is a great time for skiing. And when minus and plus temperatures alternate (night/day), a crust forms in the fields, allowing you to ride in any direction and not fall through.

How often can you ski?

If you feel good and do not fall from fatigue after a ski trip, then you can ski at least every day (if the weather is comfortable for you).

What should I do if snow sticks to my skis?

Slip often occurs at temperatures around freezing when you touch water or wet snow with your ski.

Advice: ride through a shallow puddle or patch of wet snow on two parallel skis, accelerating or pushing with sticks. Don't stop and don't push off with your foot. Driving then on dry snow, you will "wipe" the skis, and the snow will not stick. If sticking still occurs, clean the skis manually or repeat driving through a puddle and “wiping” the skis on dry snow.

When driving fast, the skis usually clean themselves, when they drive slowly, they rather freeze over. Try to dry your skis before stopping.