diets

How to grease wooden skis with a candle. Preparing plastic skis for classic skiing. How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis? How to lubricate cross-country skis. Which skis do not need to be lubricated

I briefly describe the technology for preparing and lubricating plastic skis for a classic move.

Clear scraper (plastic or wood) surface under the deck(the middle of the ski, equal to two feet) from the old ointment and dirt.
Continue cleaning the sliding surface of the skis with a clean cotton cloth soaked in a special remover for ski waxes or turpentine or aviation (clean) kerosene. Then give them ventilate for 10-15 minutes. in the cold.
Clean the polyethylene sliding surface skis with a special metal (copper), and then a plastic brush (can be omitted).
An iron melts paraffin for the appropriate weather and applies on the entire sliding surface of the skis except for the pad.
Attention! The sliding surface must not be allowed to overheat. To do this, the temperature of the iron should be no more than + 130C, and on the surface of the ski no more than + 110C. It is necessary to move the iron over the surface all the time, without stopping in any place. Let the paraffin cool in warm weather from 0C to -10C for 3-5 minutes. in the cold. If paraffin is put on cold snow -10C and below, then immediately go to step 5.
Remove all unabsorbed paraffin plastic scraper (cycles) from the surface of the skis. If the excess paraffin being removed has changed color to dirty, then repeat step 4.5 again.
Attention! Cycle carefully: paraffin left on the surface of the skis (not absorbed into polyethylene) will significantly slow down. Only well-cleaned, but well-soaked in paraffin skis will go well. At the same time, it is important that paraffin is poorly absorbed into polyethylene; therefore, saturation with paraffin occurs after 10-12 ski preparations, but then holds a lot of training.
For clutch apply ski wax under the block and rub with a cork (preferably hard foam or cork). Rubbing the ointment occurs until the entire ointment is evenly distributed over the area of the block.
Attention! The ends are waxed, the block is smeared. Do not mix wax and grease areas!
For applying a second layer of ointment it is advisable to put the skis in the cold and after that put the second layer of ointment. A warmer ointment is put in the first layer, and without mixing (after cooling), a colder ointment is applied over it, but at the temperature of the snow.
Example. Air temperature 0C, snow temperature -1C. Paraffin: from 0C to -4C. Ointment: first layer 0C or so-called. soil, second layer from 0C to -2C.
Rule: on ice, the grease under the block is thicker, on St. the snow is thinner; paraffins - to clean from the surface of the ski as best as possible.
Make on waxed ends of skis(not on the block) knurling according to the principle: the warmer the snow, the smaller and more often the knurling grooves. If there is no knurling device, then you can use a special hard nylon brush. Static electricity is removed from the ends with a horsehair brush (this is especially important at low humidity: less than 50%).

Comment. It should be borne in mind that some manufacturers of paraffins and ointments write on them only snow temperature(firm TOKO, BRIKO), others - air temperature(SWIX, REX, RODE).

Everyone involved in skiing will say with confidence that the success and comfort of the upcoming skiing will depend on the quality preparation of equipment for riding. Having taken sports equipment for rent, you can not worry about its complete readiness. However, when purchasing new skis, you will have to ensure high-quality movement on the snow yourself. Having learned, and the classics, you can provide yourself with comfort while driving, and prolong the operation of the attribute.

In order to prepare your inventory for the race, you should follow some tips. The most popular and effective method for amateur and professional skiers is to apply a wax-like hydrocarbon lubricant to the equipment. For the skating method of movement, paraffin should be applied to the entire outer surface of the board, ensuring the safety of rolling and cohesion with snow.

Plastic . It is smeared on a sports instrument cold.
Dense waxy material. It is applied to the sole of the tool by melting with a special iron.

Ski preparation tools

For skating at home, it should begin with the preparation of the necessary tools:

ski ironing with a special sole and the necessary temperature parameters;
lubrication rack-profile for fixing sports equipment in a horizontal position;
a brushing set of brushes;
scraper or other steel tool for leveling and smoothing.

Ointments for skis

To lubricate the attribute, there are multi-creams and ointments, both imported and domestically produced. According to the composition of their basic formula, they are divided: homogeneous in chemical formula, obtained as a result of synthesis and complex. You can smear them for sliding or cohesion on the surface of the tool:

solid products used at temperatures from three degrees Celsius to forty-five degrees below zero;
semi-dense substances used at -2 - +2 degrees.

After applying the funds, when preparing skis for skating, the attribute is taken out to cool outside with sub-zero temperatures.

Why oil your skis

A device that allows a person to move freely in deep snow appeared long before the advent of our era. At the same time, for skiing even on a well-laid track, the ancestors applied lubricant to their tool. It was: fat, lard, beeswax and even resin. These actions did not bring the desired effect.

Everything changed dramatically with the creation of special creams, sprays and wax-like carbon lubricants. The preparation of a sports attribute for riding with the help of these substances ensures plastic movement.

Which skis do not need to be lubricated

The budget sports tool, which is made of special dense foam, is not lubricated. After all, it was created using a special technology that provides excellent glide. Lubricants are not completely absorbed into the surface of such equipment, so choosing any product is pointless.

How to lubricate skis at home

Before applying grease, you should find out the style of intended riding. It must be remembered that the smooth movement agent should not come into contact with the adhesive when applied on the surface.

How to oil plastic skis

A plastic attribute for snow riding enthusiasts is usually lubricated only with traction agents in the place where the shoes are fastened. This type of sports tool itself has sliding functions, so it is only smeared with ointments for good cohesion.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis

If the surface of the attribute is made of semi-plastic, then for temporary protection it must also be lubricated to avoid small cracks and punctures.

How to properly oil wooden skis

When processing wooden equipment, it is necessary to clean and degrease the surface with a brush or a hard sponge. All procedures must be carried out strictly at a temperature of +17 - +25 degrees.

Coupling ointment is applied in layers, followed by rubbing each. After that, the tool is left to dry at a temperature of +8 - +10 degrees. Drying of the last layer should occur at a temperature of 0 - -10 degrees.
Further, paraffin is applied to the upper and lower parts of the inventory, and the holding agent is centered. The substance is distributed on the board with a hot iron, where it is applied in advance. The device is carefully passed over the entire surface.
Applying a scraper, excess of hardened wax is neutralized.
Using a brushing set of special brushes, the material is polished.
It is taken out in the cold for 3-5 hours, then for storage in the room.

How to oil combination skis

Equipment "combo" is designed for classic skiing with the possibility of transition to the move. Because of this, the attribute must be constantly relubricated depending on the upcoming riding style. For classic underboard skating, cohesion wax should be applied.

How to lubricate cross-country skis

For the treatment of running equipment, you can use special creams or aerosols, selected in accordance with the temperature outside the window.

Processing an instrument with hydrocarbon wax is difficult:

Having fixed the attribute on the profile, apply wax on the board with a heating device, smoothing the layer.
After cleaning the excess with a scraper, leave a layer of 1 millimeter.
Apply the next layer of hydrocarbon wax.
Determine in a cold place.

How to lubricate classic skis

Classic lovers should use a smooth ride along with a clutch, making sure they don't mix together.

The surface is cleaned, followed by the application of a slip agent. After that, the central part of the equipment is treated with a clutch cream. The actions are repeated again. The final procedure consists in polishing the boards.

How to oil skis for skating

When processing equipment for the technique of skating, only smooth movement is required. After a uniform application of the wax-like substance, the excess is removed with a scraper, the boards are polished.

How to grease skis

Having cleaned the surface of the sports instrument and, having sharpened the edges, repair all the cracks on the base with a special candle or a thermal gun. Apply hydrocarbon wax with an iron, followed by scraping and polishing.

Important

Tips for newbies! Applying lubricants for the first time is quite difficult, so you should seek help from a specialist.

Do not forget that the process of cleaning dirt and grease from the surface of the instrument is the most important. The success of the entire procedure will depend on the quality of its implementation.

Today we will share with you general information on ointments, lubricants and ski preparation. What a beginner should know in terms of how to prepare skis, what is needed for this, how often it needs to be done. Regardless of what kind of skis they are, in most cases they need to be lubricated.

Do budget skis need to be lubricated?

Budget skis, that is, at a price of up to 5,000 rubles, you do not need to lubricate. The fact is that skis are made from two types of materials: extruded polyethylene and sintered. The slipper, which is made using Extruded Base technology, almost does not absorb. Such a ski glides more on its texture. Sintered Base is a more expensive and more complex technology. Such a surface has pores that can absorb paraffin. Thus, paraffin works: in the process of work, it comes out of these very pores. There is no point in lubricating cheap skis - the lubricant on them will not last long.

Are classic and skating skis lubricated the same way?

And it lubricates differently. Both types of skis have a sliding surface that lubricates the same under equal weather conditions, but classic skis also have a block on which a holding ointment is applied.

Is it possible to do ski preparation at home or do I have to go to the service?

You can cook skis at home. But for this it is necessary to purchase equipment that will allow you to work with skis. From a minimum, an iron is needed - in order to apply paraffin using the hot method.

An ordinary household iron will not work here, it is absolutely impossible to work with such an iron, it is for completely different purposes.

Profile - a special device that is mounted on the table and allows you to fix the ski with the sliding surface up. In this position, the skis need to be prepared. At least two brushes: steel with a fine pile and nylon, soft. Steel is needed in order to clean the ski before applying paraffin and clean the paraffin after application - to open the pores. After that, a soft nylon brush is used to polish the sliding surface, making it even more slippery. You also need a plastic scraper for the initial removal of paraffin after it has been applied and cooled. Paraffin must enter the pores, and it must be removed from the surface of the skis. What we have now listed is necessary for the preparation of skating skis.

To prepare classic skis, you also need a cork for rubbing the holding ointment on the block and a wash. It is very difficult to remove an old and dirty holding ointment with anything other than a wash. The old holding ointment must be removed before applying a new one. A wash is a special solution, quite caustic, which is able to corrode holding ointment, resins and complex contaminants. This is the bare minimum for a home.

Why is it better to prepare skis in a service?

There is a certain sense in buying all this equipment if a large family and everyone skis. If a person is seriously interested in skiing, then it makes sense to buy in order to “wax” yourself and your friends. I would still always turn to the service, there the equipment is more professional than an ordinary skier can afford to buy. Service irons, as a rule, differ from home irons in a thicker sole. Applying powders or even cold lubricants with a home iron is sometimes very difficult. The thing is that the sole loses temperature and it takes more time to melt the lubricant. As a result, many begin to literally rub the lubricant. The ski overheats and the plastic surface melts much easier than the unheated surface. The valuable factory structure suffers greatly from this. This is especially true for warm skis with large and sharp structures.

Lubricant classification

First of all, you need to divide the lubricants according to the temperature of the snow. Four main ranges. Warm lubricants - plus and zero, zero and a small minus. Frosty - by minus 5-15 and by minus 15-30. The colder the snow, the harder the grease will be and the melting point will be higher. In frost, the snow is rough and warm lubricants quickly work out. Frosty snow gets stuck in soft paraffin, which worsens the glide a lot. Warm (soft) lubricants have better water repellency than solid lubricants.

Further, it is worth dividing any lubricants according to the fluorine content. Fluorine significantly increases the water repellency of any lubricant. Lubricants without fluorine are the most budgetary, but it does not mean that they are bad at all. In conditions of low humidity, they are able to give very good glide. The average content of fluorine already gives some advantages at high humidity. Often they are used as an independent lubricant. But riders have more like ground for more fluoric compounds and accelerators. They are much more expensive than fluorine-free lubricants. High fluoride and ultra are used at very high humidity of snow and air. They are expensive and a beginner skier can even be discouraged by their price.

How much will it cost to maintain skis manually and how much will it cost in the service

Four paraffins for the whole winter or even for two seasons will cost 600 rubles per briquette. An amateur iron will cost 4 thousand, a profile - 5 thousand, a scraper - 200 rubles, a scraper for a groove - 200 rubles, brushes will cost 3 thousand. Total for 15 thousand "pass". If a person prepares his skis for only one pair during the season, then it does not always make sense to purchase this equipment. In the service, skis for a beginner will be prepared in 10 minutes. In total it will cost 300 rubles. At the same time, they will give recommendations, assess the condition of the skis, and tell a lot of interesting things. Lubrication applies approximately 20-25 km of travel

Should I remove the grease or let it sit until the next time?

For athletes, before each training session, before each race, the skis are completely cleaned and new lubricants are applied immediately before going out on the snow. And a beginner should apply lubricant in case of weather changes or if the lubricant has developed. Skating skis will in any case be cleaned with a wire brush before lubrication. As for the classics, you will need a wash for the ointment.

For good manufacturers

In service, I mainly use Swix, Start, Vauhti, Maplus, Toko, Ski-go, Holmenkol lubricants. It can be said with dignity - these are the best of the best. These lubricants are used both in world-class racing and in mass sports.

... I rode this year in Bitsa on the first snow. On one of the climbs, I was stopped by a man who admitted that he had just bought himself plastic skis.
- Why do you easily drive up the mountain, but my skis go forward and backward - they roll the same way?
- And what did you smear them with?
- And what, they still need to be smeared?!

This dialogue, for all its seeming implausibility, is nonetheless very characteristic. Do I need to smear plastic skis, and how to smear?

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing,
editor-in-chief of the magazine "Skiing".

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of whether how to coat skis. Agree, such a statement of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if skis with a notch do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to those who have made their choice in favor of “ordinary” classic skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them on hold (so that they do not give back, do not slide back ).

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper.

This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. This middle part of the ski (block) must be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported holding ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is enough to buy a set of 4 holding ointments (for example, domestic Vista, Uktus, Festa, Zet, Ray or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.). etc.) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with a holding ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you go skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take a warmer and colder holding ointment with you than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.

1. Skis are not held, or, as skiers say, “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to confidently push, when you push with your foot, they slip back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.

2. Skis, as skiers say, "stupid", that is, they don’t ride at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

After that, intensively rub the ski block first with a glove, removing the lubricant from the remaining snow and moisture droplets, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and, as it were, drying the ointment. You will have to apply much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of colder ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubrication. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue walking through the forest.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of ski ointments "Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to smear with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember the golden rule: you should always take two briquettes (jars) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch for a ski trip. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warm or cold, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

After returning home, remove the old wax from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After that, you can safely apply new grease to the remnants of the old grease. If you want to clean the skis clean (which, in general, is completely optional), this can be done with a piece of cotton soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded washer - it almost does not smell, so do not "offend" anyone at home with the smell of gasoline.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you outside with skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the ointment blocks you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), and the skis ... categorically do not hold, “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

So, you will completely manage with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment - red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We smear ourselves with red ointment at any positive air temperature, and purple - at zero and a slight minus. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy, like in winter. As a rule, in spring it consists of hard large snow-ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather, you need a purple klister.

How to smear skis with liquid ski wax? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing greasy drops of ski ointment onto the block (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

And now about why you have to fiddle a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski ointments, which in their consistency are very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, the skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper, and then with a wash. The second option is to pack the skis in a case, bring them home and clean them there. And yet, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after the end of the workout - there are fewer soiled clothes and sticky hands, and the ski bag does not get dirty from the inside. The obligatory need to clean the skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually the spring sun, a wonderful ski track and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive waist bag (skiers say “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a spray bottle with a wash. This is a very good option for solving all your ski lubrication problems for the next few years in one fell swoop, so be sure to use it if possible.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly discourage you from trespassing. Trust me, modern plastic skis glide beautifully over the snow without any special treatment. This slip is enough for your eyes for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

Another thing is if your walks in the forest have brought you to such a state that you want to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer Moscow ski track or, more than aspirations, test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.

In this case, you already need to learn how to paraffin skis, you need to acquire not only a set of slip waxes (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal scraper, a ski preparation machine, etc. But it's nice work. It means that you are already firmly “hooked on the needle” of cross-country skiing, which means that skiing has already become a very important part of your life for you. But this time we will not talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with glide waxes - this is beyond the scope of our conversation today.

VII. How to improve ski glide?

I confess to you that this chapter is a plug-in, I am forced to write it a few years after writing the article itself. I have to because I see that many of you, our readers, have questions even after reading this article, and I have to answer them after receiving your letters. That is, it seems that I still failed to explain some important, basic things in this article. For example, there are many questions about how to improve ski glide. Therefore, this chapter is a summary of everything already said in this article and in answers to your questions (as well as what was not said) about ski glide.

So, what affects ski glide?

Fork #1.

Smooth skis or notched skis? Remember that notched skis will always glide significantly worse than non-notched skis. More about this in the very first chapter of this article and here in this my answer to one of your letters:

Fork #2.

Sliding surface plastic type . Again I address you to my answer to Natalya Sinitsyna Skis with notches do not go - just awful!- I talked in some detail about two types of sliding surface plastic - high molecular weight (expensive and fast) and low molecular weight (cheap and relatively slow). Please read. look at my car analogy. Remember that a wheelchair can be improved and upgraded in some way, but making it drive like a Porsche 911 or even like a Ford Focus is unrealistic.

Fork number 3.

Do you use slip lubricants? I emphasize that I wrote this article for beginners who are just taking their first steps on skis. Within this concept, I believe that plastic skis for sliding do not need to be prepared- modern plastics quite decently slide on snow. And yet, since this question comes up all the time, I will answer. The first thing you need to do is learn to distinguish between sliding lubricants and holding lubricants so as not to fall into the situation described here in this letter when our reader Tatyana Shalimova smeared the skis along the entire length with holding ointment and wondered why her skis did not go.

So, have you already learned to distinguish holding ointments ("clay") from sliding ointments ("candles", sprays, applicators, etc.)? Then -

Fork number 4.

Ointments of sliding of fast drawing ("lazy") or professional? First, you should keep in mind that you have a fairly large range of quick application glide ointments at your disposal (they are sometimes called "lazy" ointments). To apply these ointments to the sliding surface of the skis, you do not need to have any devices.

And finally, the pinnacle of ski preparation technique for skiing: the use of so-called paraffins, sprays, emulsions, powders, accelerators, etc. not household!), brushes, scrapers, fiberlen (special non-woven napkins for ski processing), paraffins, powders, accelerators ... I'm not sure that it is advisable to describe this rather complicated and expensive ski preparation process in an article for beginners. However, if I see that even within this articles for beginners which brushes are needed for a beginner to prepare the base of cross-country skis?

QUESTION ANSWER

After the publication of this article, letters began to come to me from time to time with "naive" questions, to which readers could not find answers in this material. At first I answered them privately, until it suddenly occurred to me that these answers might be of interest to a wider circle of our readers. So if you did not find the answer to your question in the article, write to me on my mailbox [email protected] Feel free to send me your questions and I'll be sure to answer them. In the meantime - the first questions and answers to them.

2. Aluminum ski poles bend. What to do?

3. Is it worth smearing skis for holding in orienteering?

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of how to oil the skis. Agree, such a formulation of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if notched skis do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to those who have made their choice in favor of "regular" skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them.

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper.

This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. It is this middle part of the ski (block) that must be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 ointments and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you are going skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and colder ointment than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.
1. Skis do not hold, or, as skiers say, they “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to push confidently, when you push with your foot, they slide back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.
2. Skis, as skiers say, “stupid”, that is, they don’t go at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

So, if ice or snow has formed under the block, peel them off with a scraper. If there is no scraper, this can be done with a branch, the tip of a ski pole, the key to the apartment, the edge of another ski, etc.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of ski ointments "Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to smear with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember the golden rule: you should always take two briquettes (cans) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch for a ski trip. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warm or cold, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you out into the street with your skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the briquettes of ointment you have, and the skis ... categorically do not hold, they “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

In this case, you already need to learn how to paraffin skis, you need to acquire not only a set of slip ointments (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal scraper, a ski preparation machine, etc. But these are pleasant chores. It means that you are already firmly “hooked on the needle” of cross-country skiing, which means that skiing has already become a very important part of your life for you. But this time we will not talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with glide waxes - this is beyond the scope of our conversation today.